By Robbie Sipes, October 2008
We are deep into football season and that means beer — lots and lots of beer. Tailgating is not very conducive to hard–core cocktail mixing. I also understand GPD isn’t terribly fond of the “car bar.”  Plus, if you’re watching the Gators win on TV, you might not want to leave the sofa long enough to properly chill a martini. So, a nice cold beer just seems more practical.
Beer has three components that a brewer uses to create flavors and aromas: Malt is grain - usually barley or wheat - germinated to make it full of sugar; hops is a bitter, aromatic flower cone, and then there’s our old friend yeast, the ultimate alcohol-production engine. There are wide variations in each of these elements — so, we need to know what each brings to the bottle.
Malt adds the fuel; providing sugar that feeds the yeast cells and begins fermentation. Any cook can tell you that sugar can do a lot. Heat it, and you get caramel; add it to acidic foods and it takes the edge off. And what about brown sugar, honey and maple syrup? Malt’s got the same diversity of potential. Depending on the type and source of the grain, and the roasting and drying possibilities, a good brewer can obtain flavors of cocoa, espresso, baguette or shortbread, all from this simple sugar source.
Throughout Europe, traditional bitter drinks enhance the appetite and aid digestion. Likewise, hop flowers are added during the brewing process for their bitter, pleasant astringency. This character excites the palate and cuts the cloying edge of rich foods. No coincidence that hearty German food tastes so delicious with mugs of bitter bier. When the brewmeister adds certain strains of hops, massive flavor components are extracted. American hops are known for a fresh pine, grass and citrus nose; the famous English strain from Kent has a spiced, earthy undertone; German species are light and floral… there are many more types; hops are grown all around the world.
Yeast also brings aroma and flavor to beer. This microbe’s main job is converting sugar into alcohol and CO2. Fermentation is an incredible, complex chemical process, creating myriad compounds. You can smell them, and equally important, you can taste them. All breeds of yeast have subtle differences, and a brewer’s selection is important.
Beer has a broad range of flavors that can meet and embrace a huge diversity of foods — not just for peanuts, pizza and pretzels. Just as people take the time to pick a particular wine for a particular meal, the choice of brews for tailgating fare can score a touchdown!
Let’s start with the light foods and fresh eats of Florida afternoons. This is where mainstream favorites find their best forum. Light lagers, and even the likes of Bud, Corona or Yuengling are good matches for food that doesn’t say “Bam!” Boiled gulf shrimp, corn on the cob, hot dogs and slaw sounds fine to me. A bigger beer could easily overwhelm fare like this.
Football also means grilling, and that includes slow-cooked meat on a low, smoky fire for deep, infused–flavored ribs, sauce-basted chicken or pulled pork. Brewers sometimes take malt and do the same thing that Scotch makers do—smoke it over a fire. These smoky beers are harder to find, but once you’ve tried them with barbecue (or smoked fish, cheeses or nuts), you’ll be spreading the word. If smoky beer sounds crazy, enhance the sweet caramel flavors in Q-ed meat with brown ale, like good old Newcastle or the recently available Brooklyn.
Al fresco is also a time for salads: delicious local lettuce and crisp vegetables, doused with tart vinaigrette. Complement that perfectly with a beer. A German-styled doublebock will pick up sweetness in the salad and vinegar; a pairing that is counter-intuitive but brilliant. Wheat beer is a winner every time; made with spices and orange peel, it makes the bitterness in the greens and the dressing’s acidity sparkle. Try Belgian Hoegaarden or Colorado’s Blue Moon.
As the weather turns cooler, or just for an evening game, it’s time for hearty soups and stews. Be it chowder or cioppino, try a beer with a bit more body like the richer-than-lager Anchor Steam or any traditional Oktoberfest — all autumn get-togethers should have this ultimate seasonal brew. If a big pot of chili simmers on the stove, try cooling it the Latino way with a dark, slightly sweet bottle of Negro Modelo. A paprika-laden goulash begs for a bottle of central European pilsner to cut the spice and fat, and pick up the sweetness of the pepper, all the while smothering the heat. An amazing feat from one beer.
If there’s fresh fish to serve, don’t shy away from beer. Choose creamy lagers like Stella Artois or the bigger, spicier Saison Dupont, another classic Belgian import. They won’t overwhelm white fish and will contrast their crispness with the oiliness of tuna or salmon. Remember, serving beer with a meal doesn’t make it less fancy or thoughtful. Choose wisely and the results will be a Tailgator Championship!
Cheers!