By Robbie Sipes, June 2008

It seems like every bartender is either making a Mojito or a Caipirinha nowadays. Customers ordering them watch with great interest as they pummel all heck out of sugar and mint or limes before adding the booze and completing the drink. The miniature baseball bat they are using is called a muddler. 

Muddling is done to combine ingredients, usually in the bottom of a mixing glass, by pressing them with said muddler before adding the majority of the liquid ingredients. American bartenders are doing more mulling about muddling than ever before. Home bartenders, take note, there are major benefits in learning to produce this style of drink, even if you have to practice with a wooden spoon.

First, the new classics, with muchas gracias to our Latin cousins:

Caipirinha

The Caipirinha is a traditional Brazilian cocktail that often uses raw sugar and the green lemons that are rarely found out of Brazil called limon subtil. Limes are the best substitute, since the indigenous fruit is so scarcely available. This “little countryside drink” highlights the national spirit, Cachaca, and is amazingly refreshing.

Muddle 3 or 4 wedges of lime and a heaping teaspoon of raw cane sugar in the bottom of a thick bar glass until the sugar dissolves. Fill the glass with crushed ice and add 2 shots of Cachaca. Stir well and serve. Carnivale in a glass!

Mojito

Although it seems that the Mojito may have just arrived stateside, it had been part of Cuba’s thriving international bar culture between the World Wars, and especially during Prohibition. When Prohibition was announced, numerous ferry companies shuttled thirsty tourists on the overnight booze cruise to the island. The Mojito was invented when Americans introduced the locals to the Mint Julep at the Bodeguita del Medio, the first bar to mix the concoction. A lucky thing too, because when this drink is well made, it is one of the world’s greatest.

In a tall glass, muddle 10-12 mint leaves with a heaping teaspoon of sugar until the mint is lightly bruised by the granules and have released their aromatic oils. Add 2 shots of white rum and 1 shot of fresh lime juice. Fill the glass with ice and top with club soda. Stir well and serve. Havana awaits!

Old Fashioned

Despite the huge popularity of all things Latin, the Old Fashioned is the most legendary drink that involves muddling.  This old-school cocktail dates back to the late 1800s. The fruits that we use in Old Fashioneds today, though slices of orange and a maraschino cherry are relatively new to the drink. The aromatic bitters and sugar were the only muddled ingredients in the original formula. The fruits were added during Prohibition to disguise the less-than-smooth spirits of the day.

In the bottom of a glass, saturate a sugar cube with Angostura bitters (plus, optionally, an orange slice and a cherry). Muddle until the sugar dissolves (and the fruit is a pulpy mush). Add two shots of bourbon and fill the glass with ice. Stir well, garnish with another orange slice and serve.

This methodology can be applied to any number of drinks that usually aren’t muddled. Take the Tom Collins, for instance. Usually made with gin, lemon juice, simple syrup and club soda, that classic is superb, but it gets an extra sparkle if it’s made by muddling lemon wedges with granulated sugar. Add the gin, shake well, strain it into an ice-filled Collins glass and add the soda. You’ll taste the difference.

Another reason that muddling is becoming so popular is that it broadens the bartender’s choice of ingredients - all sorts of berries, herbs and fruits can be used in muddled drinks - and there’s no need to make, say, a pint of fresh blueberry juice prior to opening the doors and having to toss half of it down the sink at closing time.

It’s good to see the art of muddling making a comeback behind the bar. Remember, showmanship behind the bar is a very important aspect to the job, or hobby, of a creative bartender, and muddling provides bartenders a great chance to prove their worth.

Did I say creative? Muddle over these crazy but delicious new potables. Cheers!!

Basil Grande

Muddle 4 hulled strawberries with 3-5 fresh basil leaves in a martini shaker. Fill with ice. Add equal parts vodka, raspberry liqueur and orange brandy. Add 3 parts cranberry juice. Shake and strain into a chilled martini glass. Garnish with a fresh basil leaf and a grind of fresh black pepper.

Garden Martini

Muddle 1/2 cup chopped celery and a 2-inch piece of cucumber with a heaping teaspoon sugar in a martini shaker until the sugar dissolves. Fill with ice. Add 2 shots vodka. Shake and strain into a salt rimmed martini glass. Garnish with a chive blossom and your favorite farmer.

Apple Bobber

Muddle 1/2 inch piece of coarsely cut fresh ginger, 1 teaspoon of sugar, 1 whole clove and 1 shot vodka in a martini shaker. Fill with ice, a second shot of vodka and 4 shots of apple juice. Shake and strain into a chilled martini glass. Garnish with a sprinkle of nutmeg.